Hot Pink Jeans

I'm sewing up another pair of jeans today. This time since I am running low on blue jean material, I decided to use the hot pink jean fabric i've had in my stash for a while. I love all the colored jeans in stores right now, but you know handmade are oh so much better! Here are some pictures of the pink jeans I made for my 4 year old daughter today. I just have to make a few finishing touches to the waist band.

UPDATE 2/20... Here's a picture of my daughter wearing her new jeans at the zoo. The peacock was standing next to a window by a bucket that says "Peacock food". :) Smart guy, it doesn't look like that window even opens up.


Be sure to check out my new tutorial on how to sew an adjustable waist! Check that out here.




How to Sew an Adjustable Waistband

Hi! How would you like to know how to sew an adjustable waist into the pants you make? Here is a complete tutorial, with way too many photos on how I sew an adjustable waistband. This is the typical waistband I use in all the jeans and pants I sell in my shop on Etsy.

 

 Supplies you'll need

 Step 1: 

Attach interfacing to the wrong side of the waistband.




Step 2: 

Mark the center of the waistband, and then measure 4" to both sides of center and mark. These markings are where you'll make your buttonholes for the elastic openings.

This spacing works well for size 4T. You should check this measurement on your child to note where you want the buttons to sit. I don't like them to sit on my daughters hips, that would be uncomfortable for her. I like the elastic to come around her hips to the front - it gives plenty of room for the elastic to stretch and doesn't bunch odd in the back of the pants. If you're confused, please ask questions.
Find center of waistband and make marks 4" on either side. This is the location of your elastic opening.

Step 3:

Fold and press the waistband in half widthwise, then mark the position of your buttonholes. Start buttonhole 3/8" down from center fold. Sew a 7/8" buttonhole (slightly larger than your elastic).

 Step 4:

Using a seam ripper, carefully open your buttonhole.

 Step 5:

On the waistband edge that does not have the buttonholes, fold under 1/4" seam allowance and press (as shown). This will come in handy when you edge stitch the waistband later on - trust me on this.

 Step 6:

Fold the waistband, right sides together. Sew, with the appropriate seam allowance. Turn the waistband right side out and press seam open.

Step 7:

With the right side of the pants up, pin the right side of the waistband to the wrong side of the pants, matching the center back of the waistband to the center back of the pants. Make sure the buttonhole side of the waistband is on top (as shown below).

Step 8:

From the right side of the pants, sew the pinned waistband to the pants, with the required seam allowance.

 Step 9:

Press the waistband up, and fold it on the fold line toward the pants right side. 

Step 10:

Fold the free raw edge of the waistband under 1/4" and pin this edge to the pants front and topstitch through all layers to secure it.


Step 11:

Edgestitch along the top fold line of the waistand.

Step 12:

Sew buttons on waistband in front of the buttonhole openings (as shown).

 Step 13:

Cut a length of elastic that will run from one buttonhole to the other. Mine is 18", add 1" for seam allowance.
 Fold elastic ends under twice, and sew to secure.

Step 14:

Using a safety pin attached to one end of the elastic, insert the elastic through one of the buttonhole openings in the waistband and out of the other opening. 




Step 15:

My latest trick.... after many many sewn waistbands...to keep the elastic from turning inside the waistband casing, stitch a line along the center back seam to secure the elastic in place. The elastic will still stretch from either side, but this will keep the elastic from pulling out of the pants or turning. 

And you're done!



These pants are now available in my shop! Stop in and support handmade!

Jen

shantung fabric



Hi there! Continuing on my series on fabric properties, today's post is about shantung. I am doing this series to gain more expertise in textiles, and more importantly to help me pick the fabric to use for my new vintage dress pattern Advance 9441.  Here we go, on to shantung research…



Shantung
A rough silk in a plain weave which has large irregular filling yarns which give it a slubbed effect. Cotton and rayon are often used to simulate this fabric.

McCall’s Sewing Book, Sixth Printing copyright 1963 by McCall Corporation. Published by Random House, Inc.
 

 Silk shantung is a lighter and smoother alternative to silk Dupioni. Although it still has a slightly striated surface due to the raw silk it is woven with, it is very subtle, and hardly noticeable. 

This green vintage dress found on Etsy is gorgeous. I found a forest green polyester shantung fabric at Fashion Fabrics Club but this one looks a little grey, it's tough to tell shopping online, I love the polka dot fabric too. Help! Where can I find that green??

source
A few more properties to note: 

Weight: medium weight– silk, heavy weight – polyester/rayon.

Ease of Use: All seams should be finished, as the fabric will fray. Common seam finishes for Silk Shantung include French seams and overlocked seams. Use a silk needle when sewing Silk Shantung, to prevent snagging the fabric

Uses: Evening wear, skirts, bridal gowns, jackets, and cocktail dresses

Care: Silk is dry clean only. Polyester, and rayon shantung are machine washable

Price:
$34.49/yard for 100% silk
$5.25-$11.00/yard for rayon/polyester blend
$5.75-$12.00/yard for 100% rayon
$5.75-12.00/yard for 80% cotton, 20% silk
$9.00/yd for 100% polyester

Check out my Pinterest board for a few shops offering this fabric.

Next up ... surah








peau de soie

Hi there! Today's post is about the the fabric properties for peau de soie. Why you might ask? To gain more expertise in textiles, and more importantly to help me pick the fabric to use for my new vintage dress pattern Advance 9441.  My first task was to research peau de soie. So here goes...
 
100% Silk Peau de Soie, Valentine Red
Peau de Soie
 
The name is French for “skin of silk” and denotes a soft, good-quality silk satin cloth which has a rather dull, grainy appearance. 

McCall’s Sewing Book, Sixth Printing copyright 1963 by McCall Corporation. Published by Random House, Inc.



source
The use of "dull" in that definition was curious to me. I found out that actually the dull luster of peau de soie is more flattering to most body shapes and sizes than high luster satins.   
If you go searching for this fabric, you will likely find it under these names:

double face satin
polyester delustered satin
duchesse satin

Originally peau de soie was always made of pure silk, however some say polyester delustered satin is more forgiving than silk satins. Polyester delustered satin doesn't water spot as easily, and seamstress often find it easier to sew. The biggest consideration between polyester and silk is of course the price. I found the silk for $65-$80/yard, and the polyester for $6.99. Check out my Pinterest board for a few shops offering this fabric.
 
I'm pretty sure my wedding gown was made of duchesse satin, not silk because of the price tag. It was beautiful, but I could not afford the high price tag of the silk... oh but how good that silk would have felt. But we're only in the dress for  a few hours anyways right? Then it hangs in our closets hoping to one day be worn by our daughters.... dreaming here...

A few more properties to note:


Weight: medium weight, and has a moderately stiff drape. 
Ease of Use: Sews easily, but pins and needles leave marks. Not much stretch, may be difficult to ease seams
Uses: Evening gowns, bridal
Care: Dry Clean
Price: $65-$80/yard for 100% silk and $6.99-$14.95/yard for 100% polyester

Next up shantung...

Vintage Sewing Pattern: Advance 9441

 
I purchased this original vintage Advance 9441 pattern from Etsy during Christmas break, and i've been eager to make it ever since. I need just the right fabric to get started on this. From what I could find out about this pattern searching online, it is a 1960s cocktail dress. The pattern says:

One wonderful dress with so much flattery and fashion, you'll want it both in solids and prints! It's an indispensable... to dress up or down, to wear with big chunky necklace and earings or a single jeweled brooch. 

Isn't it lovely?

Over the break I was immersed in the book Sew Retro: 25 Vintage-Inspired Projects for the Modern Girl & A Stylish History of the Sewing Revolution, by Judi Ketteler.  I imagine what these women were like & what trials they faced. But oh the lovely dresses they wore.

I can't make this dress out of just any fabric, so I am on the hunt for the perfect one. Looking over the list of recommended fabrics on the pattern, there are several I am unfamiliar with like peau de soie, shantung, surah, and faille. What are these? How much do they cost? What are there draping properties? Are they readily available? How about availability of vintage fabric in good condition?

Here's the list of suggested fabrics found on the back of the Advance 9441 pattern:

  • Peau de soie
  • Satin
  • brocade
  • faille
  • wool crepe
  • jersey
  • polished cotton
  • gingham
  • cotton surah
  • cotton lace
  • jacquard
  • pique
  • linen
  • rayon linen
  • silk linen
  • silk
  • synthetic crepe
  • shantung
  • surah
  • taffeta
Anyways, this long list got me thinking about doing a blog series about the properties, price range and uses for each of these fabrics. I figured if i'm going to research this anyways, maybe someone else could find this information useful. I also, started a Pinterest board to keep track of the fabrics I like for this dress.

My next post will be on Peau de soie